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Your drone came with a data cable that you will use to connect your drone to the USB port of a windows computer, so you can use the NLD software. NLD is made for windows only. With the NLD software and your powered on, PC connected drone, you will be able to do performance mods, upgrade or downgrade firmware, unlock altitude limits and remove or even turn off NFZ. NLD also comes with the ability anoxia medical definition to patch your own NLD GO version and use with your ANDROID phone, in place of stock DJI GO. The latest NLD GO 4.1.22 and NLD GO 4.1.14 have all the DJI NFZ database removed, will not check your birds firmware version so DJI can’t force an update, cuts all communications back to DJI, allows you to use google maps(4.1.22 only) and much, much more.


If you want to get the most out of NLD, use NLD GO 4.1.22 with your ANDROID device. If you have a spark and are using OTG, use NLD GO 4.1.14 instead. DJI ruined OTG from working properly in DJI GO 4.1.22.

Create a folder on your desktop called NLD and unzip or decompress the NLD files into this folder. Power on your drone and connect to the computer with the data cable supplied by DJI, and right-click on nldapp.Exe in the NLD folder. Run as administrator. NLD will load and start to download the additional files it needs in order to run. Watch the top of NLD for status. NLD will install the files and then be ready to detect your drone. Your drones info will be shown at the bottom left of NLD – if NLD needs to communicate with you, you will see messages here. Follow the prompts to activate NLD and enter your activation code you received by email, if you didn’t do so already. (check your SPAM folder if you didn’t get the key) you will need 1 activation key per drone. The activation key is tied to the serial number of each drone, and you can run NLD from multiple anoxic seizure symptoms computers, not just one.

Power on your drone and connect to the computer with the data cable supplied by DJI, and right-click on nldapp.Exe in the NLD folder. Run as administrator. You will need to run NLD as administrator every time you use NLD. NLD will load and start to download the additional files it needs in order to run. Watch the top of NLD for status. NLD will install the files and then be ready to detect your drone. Your drones info will be shown at the bottom left of NLD – if NLD needs to communicate with you, you will see messages here.

The remove NFZ option will notify you if your current firmware is compatible with the NFZ mod. If it is, it will run a stage 1 and stage 2 procedure. You will get a message that the drone will restart 3 times. The restart is not an actual reboot of the drone, but a quick restart, so you will not hear the startup tones of the drone like a normal reboot. If you have your PC speakers on, you will hear the drone disconnect and reconnect. Once the procedure is complete, you can disconnect your drone, restart it and go and test. If you are using other version of GO and not NLD GO 4.1.22 or NLD GO 4.1.14, complete removal of NFZ is not guaranteed to work. Use NLD GO 4.1.22 or NLD GO 4.1.14 with OTG for best compatibility. If you are not using OTG, use NLD GO 4.1.22.

When that screen opens, click on the drop down box on the left side of the screen and select the GO version you want to patch. Click on download and save this file to your desktop, or to the NLD folder you created. Click on the box on the right side of the screen and select an output folder where you want the new MODIFIED DJI GO4 app to be stored. Use the same location as where you downloaded the unpatched GO file. Once that is done, click APPLY at the bottom of the screen and the DJI app will now be patched and converted into the modified NLD-DJI-GO4 app. Be patient. Depending on your internet connection, this may take a while. Once that is done, transfer that file to your device via a USB cable hooked between the phone & the computer. Use the “my files” app on the phone to locate the APK file and click on it to install it in the phone. Note you have to allow unknown apps to be installed in the settings on your device. If you have issues with the .Apk not wanting to install, download ES file explorer from the playstore and use that.

Just click on the version that you want to upgrade/downgrade to or refresh. It takes about 15 minutes for the 2 stage process to complete, once the firmware has been transferred hypoxic ischemic brain injury pathophysiology neuropathology and mechanisms to your drone, and the flashing procedure has started. Depending on your internet connection, the firmware download may take a while to finish, before the flashing procedure starts. Once the flashing procedure starts, NLD will monitor the flashing % done. All the flashing is being done by the drone itself. NLD is just monitoring the % done and relaying that to you. During the actual updating of data, the red LED’s on the drone will flash slowly. The drone may reboot several times and appear to be “stuck”. BE PATIENT!! When they stop flashing, and return to solid red after an automatic last restart of the drone, the updating procedure is done. Go ahead and run the upgrade/downgrade a 2nd time to ensure a proper firmware flash. The 2nd run should take approximately 3 minutes to complete. If you are unsure if the flashing procedure is complete or not…(sometimes the 100% message won’t change…NLD is waiting for confirmation from the drone, but with DJI’s crap programming, sometimes that message never happens), DO NOT JUST POWER OFF THE DRONE!!!…you may BRICK it!!! Check the red lights. They should be solid and not flashing. Power on the RC..If it connects to the drone, the drone isn’t flashing and can be disconnected from the PC, despite what the software may be telling you. If you get the "phase" messages, the drone is NOT flashing. (check with the RC) if this happens, you may need to restart the PC to close the programs or use task manager to end task the NLD program. To check the firmware version of the drone, restart it, and connect it back up to NLD. Check the bottom left plexus anxiety testimonials for the version. The other way to check if you are using a stock version of GO is to go to the about page and check the firmware version listed there.

Keep a backup of the original file. Save your changes and transfer back to your device, (/DJI/og_settings/dtm_settings.Json). All you want to do is replace N21W158.SRTMGL1.Hgt.Zip and or N21W159.SRTMGL1.Hgt.Zip with the name of your tiles for your area. Make changes to this file as you fly in different areas that need different tiles. Check the map here: http://dwtkns.Com/srtm30m/ you can have up to 4 tiles listed at a time in this file.

Make your own file named "usegooglemap" without the quotes and save it there. Make sure it doesn’t have a .Txt extension. It’s just a .Txt file saved without a .Txt at the end. You may find this easier to do with your device connected to your PC. Just make sure that there cerebral anoxia causes is no usegooglemap.Txt file. You can’t have it with a .Txt extension in android for it to work correctly. You can create a .Txt file on your pc, but delete the .Txt off the end. You can create the .Txt file, transfer it to your device, then on your device rename the file and delete the .Txt off the end if it is easier for you.

Run GO. You should see google maps. Turn on data to your device and google maps should show you your location. Leave your data on for real time map updates, or cache the maps before you fly so you can turn off data. To cache google maps, open up go with a data connection, open google maps in GO and scroll around where you are going to fly. This will cache the area. Zoom in, zoom out etc. Now you don’t need to have a data connection and you will see the cached map area in google when you use it. You can’t download offline maps, like HERE can.

Edit the datalink.Settings.Json file with a text editor, find the variable called "boost" and change this from false to true to enable the 1.5W boost feature to get even more range than FCC mode. Do the same for the 32channels and change false to true. Save the file. Boost has been tested and working on mavic, and 32 channel tested and working on P4P. This feature runs the RF chips at their max voltages and as such generates a LOT more heat. Its not advisable to use this mode in very hot climates as the small internal cooling fan may not be able to cope with the extra heat. Run this anxiété antonyme boost mode at your own risk!

PLEASE FOR THE SANITY OF YOUR PAYING CUSTOMERS update and revise this guide to include the newest and simplest methods! In order that is simple to follow step by step. It is SO HARD to follow this guide as things are worded strangely, sometimes misspelled or misworded which makes it literally impossible to follow step by step.. It’s like trying to decode what you are trying to say at times. For example, getting the google maps to work on the latest patched app, you say "create a FILE named usegooglemaps. HOW DO YOU CREATE A FILE?! WHAT KIND OF FILE? Do you mean folder? And if so WHAT FILE do I put in the folder?! If I told you to CREATE A FILE and name it something, would you have ANY clue what that actually meant? There are so many kinds of "files" if I was told what kind of file, maybe I would have somewhere to start in figuring out what you’re trying to say but you just say create a file. I’m soooo confused, and by NO MEANS am I new to computers. Very well trained. Enough to know that you cannot simply be told to create a file, without being told what kind of file, and proceed successfully. And after reading the overall guide following step by step as much as possible, I somehow find a newer updated version of certain steps somewhere else on the website scattered into places that diffuse axonal brain injury prognosis you would never expect to look and I can’t tell what’s new and what’s old

PLEASE FOR THE SANITY OF YOUR PAYING CUSTOMERS update and revise this guide to include the newest and simplest methods! In order that is simple to follow step by step. It is SO HARD to follow this guide as things are worded strangely, sometimes misspelled or misworded which makes it literally impossible to follow step by step.. It’s like trying to decode what you are trying to say at times. For example, getting the google maps to work on the latest patched app, you say "create a FILE named usegooglemaps. HOW DO YOU CREATE A FILE?! WHAT KIND OF FILE? Do you mean folder? And if so WHAT FILE do I put in the folder?! If I told you to CREATE A FILE and name it something, would you have ANY clue what that actually meant? There are so many kinds of "files" if I was told what kind of file, maybe I would have somewhere to start in figuring out what you’re trying to say but you just say create a file. I’m soooo confused, and by NO MEANS am I new to computers. Very well trained. Enough to know that you cannot simply be told to create a file, without being told what kind of file, and proceed successfully. And after reading the overall guide following step by step as much as possible, I somehow prognosis after anoxic brain injury find a newer updated version of certain steps somewhere else on the website scattered into places that you would never expect to look and I can’t tell what’s new and what’s old

PLEASE FOR THE SANITY OF YOUR PAYING CUSTOMERS update and revise this guide to include the newest and simplest methods! In order that is simple to follow step by step. It is SO HARD to follow this guide as things are worded strangely, sometimes misspelled or misworded which makes it literally impossible to follow step by step.. It’s like trying to decode what you are trying to say at times. For example, getting the google maps to work on the latest patched app, you say "create a FILE named usegooglemaps. HOW DO YOU CREATE A FILE?! WHAT KIND OF FILE? Do you mean folder? And if so WHAT FILE do I put in the folder?! If I told you to CREATE A FILE and name it something, would you have ANY clue what that actually meant? There are so many kinds of "files" if I was told what kind of file, maybe I would have somewhere to start in figuring out what you’re trying to say but you just say create a file. I’m soooo confused, and by NO MEANS am I new to computers. Very well trained. Enough to know that you cannot simply be told to create a file, without being told what kind of file, and proceed successfully. And after reading the overall guide following step by step as much as possible, I somehow find a newer updated version of certain steps somewhere else on the website scattered into places that you would never expect to look and I can’t tell what’s new and what’s old