My $120 cj7 build – page 2 hypoxic ischemic encephalopathy life expectancy

Decided to tinker today. I’m planing to run the Dana 300 T-case because everybody says it’s the better case. The Jeep I got the drivetrain out of was running the Dana 20. It was working, but not well. It was a bear to shift with. anxiety test free I got to measuring the TF 999 in the CJ7 and the TF 727 that was in the CJ5 behind the Mopar 360. Same family of transmission from what I can tell only the 727 is a much stronger unit. The bolt pattern at the tail housing is the same and I got to wondering if the adapter for the Dana 300 would fit on the 727. Maybe I’d need a new output shaft, but it looks like it will bolt up. No such luck finding out. I got the adapter and T-case off the 999, but can’t get the adaptor off the stupid 727…


Bolts are out, but that baby ain’t coming apart.

They are getting rebuilt anyway before they go back in. I know the 727 runs, I was driving the CJ5 for a couple months before I tore it down. The Dana 300 is a crap shoot as it had been sitting for years. I was kinda hoping to know if this was going to work or if I was gonna have to spring for a new adapter.

Decided to tinker today. I’m planing to run the Dana 300 T-case because everybody says it’s the better case. The Jeep I got the drivetrain out of was running the Dana 20. It was working, but not well. It was a bear to shift with. I got to measuring the TF 999 in the CJ7 and the TF 727 that was in the CJ5 behind the Mopar 360. Same family of transmission from what I can tell only the 727 is a much stronger unit. The bolt pattern at the tail housing is the same and I got to wondering if the adapter for the Dana 300 would fit on the 727. Maybe I’d need a new output shaft, but it looks like it will bolt up. No such luck finding out. I got the adapter and T-case off the 999, but can’t get the adaptor off the stupid 727… Bolts are out, but that baby ain’t coming apart.

They are getting rebuilt anyway before they go back in. I know the 727 runs, I was driving the CJ5 for a couple months before I tore it down. The Dana 300 is a crap shoot as it had been sitting for years. I was kinda hoping to know if this was going to work or if I was gonna have to spring for a new adapter.

My wife is a teacher’s aid. No school in the summer, so we’re down a paycheck. That coupled with my not-so-great VA disability income means no parts buying over the summer. Also, I don’t get along with 90 degree weather, and have been doing some pretty intense physical therapy on my bad shoulder. MRI next week, so I’ll get to see what kind of damage is in there now. severe anoxic brain injury survivor stories Been years since the last operation. Anyway… after taking the summer off working on the Jeep, I’m back at it… sort of.

Now for a guy still in the bare frame stage, this is gonna sound strange, but my first big spend was for a new back bumper. When I was mocking up the new springs, I found the Rubicon Express YJ springs to be a bit longer. The rear shackles ended up being angled too far back, and I was gonna have to move the rear shackle mount back a couple inches or there wouldn’t be enough room for movement once there was weight on it. After deliberating on weather to build or buy, I found one online that looked very strong, and decided to go for it, knowing I’d probably have to modify how it attached to the frame. I ordered the LOD Expedition series bumper and tire carrier, and the optional frame tie ins.

Now I had to figure out a way to mount the bumper so that it is strong enough that I can move the rear shackle back and have it resting on the bumper, as a frame extension. The bumpers optional frame tie ins, are only for the outside of the frame. There are only two. They do not sandwich the frame. for the bolts on the inside of the frame, you get only backing plates.

First off, I can’t imagine anyone NOT getting the frame tie ins. Too many videos out there of people trying to get unstuck, and ripping the rear bumper off a vehicle. hypoxic and anoxic brain injury Second, I need this strong enough to be a frame extension, as the shackle will be moved back one hole. I remembered taking some brackets off my old Super Duty when I first got it years ago. (it had a 5th wheel hitch I didn’t need) I dug into my scrap pile and started making the pieces to a second pair of frame tie ins, using these, and the backing plates LOD sent. These will go on the inside, and sandwich the frame. I’ll have to get longer bolts. LOD also sent grade 5 bolts. I’ll get grade 8.

There is a tab on the bottom of the bumper that had a hole that corresponds with the rear shackle mount hole. (that will now be the front shackle mount hole) This will work out perfectly, but will still need further reinforcement under it. I’ll cut the original rear bumper, install a sleeve, (kinda like a trailer hitch in a reciever) and it will go inside the frame.The bolts will go through the frame tie ins, the frame, and the sleeve, that will be welded to the rear of the LOD bumper under the tab, so it will support the rear shackle mount.

Sucky thing is now that we’re back to a two income family… the timing chain broke in my daily driver (2003 Marauder) pretty sure I bent a bunch of valves too. I’m looking at a big repair bill. probably a total rebuild. I have to do the things that don’t require a lot of cash outlay. I can do the frame painting and the rest of the bumper mounting without much additional cost in the mean time. anoxic zone I’ll be able to get the springs mounted, flip her back over, and get the axles back under her without a lot of cost. Maybe I can start working on the tub in my no money spare time till after I get the car up and running again.

Crap… If it isn’t one thing, it’s another. My daily driver (2003 Mercury Marauder) is down. Timing chain jumped, and she bent some valves. 160K miles on her. Probably should have replaced it as a preventive measure, but she was running fine… So that put a $4,000 dent in the Jeep budget.

Anyway, I have been able to spend a little time working out the kinks in the rear bumper install, and how far back to move the rear spring shackle eyes. Pretty sure I won’t have to flip them around like I had them in the previous post. Moving them one hole back should do the trick. I test fitted the springs, and the angle of the shackles look like they should be OK. I guess I’ll find out when she’s on the ground.

Here you see the finished frame tie ins I did for the inside. NOW I can sandwich the frame. I also replace the grade 5 hardware they sent, with grade 8. Notice how now that I moved the shackle eye back, they sit on top of the original rear crossmember. This leaves them up a bit, and not directly sitting on the frame, so I’ll have to insert a piece of steel to fill the gap right under the eye to keep it from flexing under load. Kinda screwed up on those home made tie ins. My side supports were so close I didn’t leave enough room for a socket. Had to hold the nut with an open end wrench, and tighten the bolt from the other side. Very hard to get to.

Put the front springs on today. I was gonna paint the front of the frame, but got overheated. maybe later in the evening or tomorrow. A little concerned about the angle of the shackles. They are over the 90* mark with no weight on them at all. The Rubicon express YJ SOA springs are suppose to ride nice, but are a bit longer. I can’t move either of the shackle mounts without a lot of custom fab work.

The Dave’s Customs Unlimited kit mounts the rear right in front of the body mount, so there’s no moving it back. Wouldn’t want to go back anyway. The front uses factory holes, so moving it forward would mean paying somebody to cut and weld on what I paid them to engineer. I already had to space them out for the Dodge truck axles. I’m thinking that there should be enough room for the spring to compress without having it bang on the frame. I’ll have to make my own bump stops anyway, as the factory ones won’t match up with the Dodge Dana 44.

Side note: I had ordered two new sets of greasable shackles and now somehow I don’t have enough bolts to mount both the front and rear springs. anoxia refers to They give you the greasable bolts for the shackles, but regular bolts for the pivot end of the springs. Maybe I’m being OCD, but I want greasable bolts everywhere there is a bushing… so I’m ordering another kit.